this month in japan

September 長月

September at a glance

-10°0°10°20°30°Sapporo15°23°Naha26°31°Tokyo20°28°
Normal daily low → high, °C (JMA 1991–2020). Kyoto’s monthly average: 24.4°C.
  • Still summer by day, autumn by night, and Tokyo's wettest stretch begins.

Weather

  • Tokyo: 28°C / 20°C. About 225mm of rain, nearly four times January's.
  • Kyoto: averages 24.4°C.
  • Sapporo: 23°C / 15°C. The first crisp mornings.
  • Okinawa (Naha): 31°C / 26°C.
  • Pack: summer clothes, a decent umbrella, and a light layer for Hokkaido evenings.

What's happening

  • Third Monday: Respect for the Aged Day.
  • Autumnal Equinox Day, 23 September in 2027. When the two holidays fall close together, they make a long weekend.
  • 1–3 September: Owara Kaze no Bon, Yatsuo, Toyama. Hushed, slow dancing through the streets to fiddle and song.
  • Grand Sumo, September tournament — Ryogoku Kokugikan, Tokyo.
  • Usually mid-September: Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri, Osaka. Huge wooden floats taken around corners at a run.

What's in season

  • Sanma, Pacific saury, salt-grilled. The taste of autumn.
  • Saba, mackerel. Matsuwa on the Miura Peninsula is known for it.
  • Chestnuts, set out at the moon-viewing season.
  • Sweet potatoes.

The 72 seasons

候 Romaji Meaning From c.
草露白 kusa no tsuyu shiroshi Dew glistens white on grass 8 Sep
鶺鴒鳴 sekirei naku Wagtails sing 13 Sep
玄鳥去 tsubame saru Swallows leave 18 Sep
雷乃収声 kaminari sunawachi koe o osamu Thunder ceases 23 Sep
蟄虫坏戸 mushi kakurete to o fusagu Insects seal their burrows 28 Sep
水始涸 mizu hajimete karuru Fields are drained 3 Oct

Crowds

Many people take holidays in late September, so plan around the two public holidays. Early September is the easier window.

psst,

Order sanma whole and salt-grilled at a counter place. No fish says autumn in Japan more plainly.

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