this month in japan
July 文月
July at a glance
- Kyoto's month-long festival, fireworks on the river, and the heat arrives.
Weather
- Tokyo: 30°C / 22°C. The rains usually clear around 19 July, and then it gets hot and sticky.
- Kyoto: averages 27.3°C, hotter than Tokyo.
- Sapporo: 25°C / 18°C.
- Okinawa (Naha): 32°C / 27°C.
- Pack: light, breathable clothes, a hat, a refillable bottle, and a small towel. Locals carry one for the sweat.
What's happening
- Third Monday: Marine Day.
- 1–31 July: Gion Matsuri, Kyoto. Float processions on 17 and 24 July, with the yoiyama street nights on 14–16 and 21–23.
- Tenjin Matsuri, Osaka. The main day is 25 July, with a river procession and fireworks.
- Last Saturday: Sumida River Fireworks, Tokyo.
- Grand Sumo, July tournament — IG Arena, Nagoya. Mt Fuji's climbing season opens in early July.
- 7 July: Tanabata, the star festival. Wishes on paper strips go up on bamboo. Some cities, like Sendai, celebrate in August instead.
- 1–15 July, every year: Hakata Gion Yamakasa in Fukuoka, ending in a pre-dawn race through the streets.
What's in season
- Unagi, grilled eel over rice, eaten for stamina on muggy days.
- Hiyashi chuka, chilled ramen.
- Kakigori, shaved ice.
- Tomatoes and cucumbers at their peak.
The 72 seasons
| 候 | Romaji | Meaning | From c. |
|---|---|---|---|
| 温風至 | atsukaze itaru | Warm winds blow | 7 Jul |
| 蓮始開 | hasu hajimete hiraku | First lotus blossoms | 12 Jul |
| 鷹乃学習 | taka sunawachi waza o narau | Hawks learn to fly | 17 Jul |
| 桐始結花 | kiri hajimete hana o musubu | Paulownia sets its buds | 23 Jul |
| 土潤溽暑 | tsuchi uruōte mushiatsushi | Damp earth, humid heat | 28 Jul |
| 大雨時行 | taiu tokidoki ni furu | Heavy rains fall now and then | 2 Aug |
Crowds
Kyoto is at its busiest around the 14–17 July yoiyama nights and the first procession. Tokyo's riverside is packed on fireworks night. If you plan to climb Fuji, book mountain accommodation well in advance.
psst,
Do a Gion yoiyama evening, not just the parade. The floats stand in the streets before they roll.