this month in japan
December 師走
December at a glance
- The last leaves, the first hot pots, and the countdown to New Year.
Weather
- Tokyo: 12°C / 4°C. Dry and sunny, one of the driest months.
- Kyoto: averages 7.2°C.
- Sapporo: 2°C / −4°C. Winter is here.
- Okinawa (Naha): 22°C / 17°C.
- Pack: a winter coat, gloves and layers. Pack snow boots for Hokkaido.
What's happening
- No national holidays in December.
- 2–3 December: Chichibu Night Festival (Yomatsuri), Saitama.
- Early December: the last of the autumn leaves in Tokyo, and the end of Rikugien's light-ups.
- 31 December: toshikoshi soba. Long noodles for a long life, eaten on New Year's Eve.
- 31 December, late night: joya no kane. Temples ring their bells 108 times as the year turns. Some let visitors take a turn.
What's in season
- Buri, yellowtail, now fattening up for winter.
- Daikon and hakusai, the backbone of nabe.
- Mikan, by the boxful.
- Nabe hot pot, paired with warm sake.
The 72 seasons
| 候 | Romaji | Meaning | From c. |
|---|---|---|---|
| 閉塞成冬 | sora samuku fuyu to naru | Cold sets in; winter begins | 7 Dec |
| 熊蟄穴 | kuma ana ni komoru | Bears retreat to their dens | 12 Dec |
| 鱖魚群 | sake no uo muragaru | Salmon gather and swim upstream | 17 Dec |
| 乃東生 | natsukarekusa shōzu | Self-heal sprouts | 22 Dec |
| 麋角解 | sawashika no tsuno otsuru | Deer shed their antlers | 27 Dec |
| 雪下出麦 | yuki kudarite mugi nobiru | Wheat sprouts under snow | 1 Jan |
Crowds
There are no public holidays in December, so the first half is quiet. At the very end of the year, most restaurants and attractions close for the New Year holidays. Plan meals and bookings ahead.
psst,
Early December is underrated. You get the last leaves in Tokyo, dry skies, no holiday crush, and nabe season in full swing.