Hiraizumi
A golden hall from Japan's northern golden age.
Why Japanese travelers love itIt is the place where the poet Basho wrote of 'summer grasses', and the Golden Hall feels like a treasure box.
In the 12th century, the Oshu Fujiwara clan made Hiraizumi a rich northern capital. Little of the city survives, but Chusonji's Konjikido, a small hall covered in lacquer and gold leaf, is still here. Next door, Motsuji has a wide pond garden rebuilt to look like the original. It is a quiet, green town. Allow half a day, and walk slowly.
Best time: May for fresh green, or late October to early November for autumn color.
Weather
Average temperature, °C. JMA 1991–2020 normals (Ichinoseki AMeDAS (JMA)).
Top 5
- Chusonji KonjikidoThe gold-covered hall, protected inside a newer building.
- MotsujiA calm pond garden from the 12th-century plan.
- Takadachi GikeidoA small hall with a statue of Minamoto-no-Yoshitsune.
- Muryokoin ruinsThe site of a temple modeled on Kyoto's Byodoin.
- SankozoChusonji's treasure house of statues and sutras.
A simple day
- Shinkansen to Ichinoseki, local train to Hiraizumi.
- Walk up the cedar avenue to Chusonji.
- Simple soba lunch in town.
- Afternoon at Motsuji's garden.
- Return via Ichinoseki.
Where to stay
- IchinosekiThe shinkansen station and most hotels.
- HiraizumiA few small inns for a quiet night.
Getting there
Tokyo → Hiraizumi: about 2h40 by Tohoku Shinkansen to Ichinoseki, then a local train.
psst — skip this mistake: Rushing Chusonji. The climb up the cedar path is part of the visit.